Roman Breakfast Quest – Bake from Scratch


By Brian Hart Hoffman
Pizza for breakfast? Sure, it’s a factor. Once I visited Roma (Rome) to supply this challenge, I used to be amazed by the variety of folks lined up for a slice of pizza to begin their day. Pizza was solely a part of the explanation I needed to go on the final word Roman breakfast quest. When the Rome episode of Stanley Tucci: Trying to find Italy aired, I realized about maritozzo and knew I needed to uncover it for myself. I turned to creator Katie Parla as a trusted supply of meals in Rome and requested her to point out me round her house metropolis. These of you who know me know I don’t rise up early for a lot, however the bakeries we visited made the early alarm value it.

First up was a visit to Panifi cio Bonci within the Prati neighborhood for its famed pizza bianca. Gabriele Bonci, proprietor and grasp baker, is one among Italy’s most necessary baking figures, and he’s basically re-engineered Roman pizza, from the grain up. At first sight, you would possibly suppose this flatbread is focaccia, however it’s not. I realized that pizza bianca isn’t enriched and doesn’t have a second rise. You may take pleasure in it by itself as an unimaginable piece of bread or have it cut up and filled with mortadella earlier than getting a beneficiant douse of olive oil. Bonci has loads of different candy and savory gadgets that may tempt you, together with its supplì, the Roman model of arancini, a tacky fried rice ball, and, in fact, maritozzo. However that must wait.

With pizza on my thoughts, we continued to Antico Forno Roscioli close to the Campo de’ Fiori, the place I queued with Romans headed to high school and work for a savory slice of pizza rossa. Whereas this bustling bakery was based in 1972, the constructing itself was established as a bakery in 1824. At the moment, it’s a sizzling spot for this conventional breakfast pizza, amongst different issues. An additional-virgin olive oil-enriched tomato sauce tops the uncooked dough of the rossa earlier than being baked. There’s no cheese. No toppings. Simply sauce and the crispiest crust I’ve ever eaten.

Extraordinarily pleased from my two pizza adventures, I took within the unimaginable historical past round me as we walked previous the Foro Romano (Roman Discussion board) and Colosseo (Colosseum). By the point I reached Pasticceria Regoli, I used to be virtually giddy excited about tasting my first maritozzo. However earlier than I let you know about that have, let me let you know about Regoli, which has been a household enterprise for greater than 100 years. The Regolis initially hailed from Tuscany, the place they had been charcoal makers. At the moment, the bakery circumstances are stuffed with pleasant gadgets, from cannoli to among the most stunning truffles I noticed in Italy. They actually have a espresso store subsequent door, the place I instantly noticed the pass-through window the place pastries are delivered to company standing on the counter for espresso. My sort of place!
However now, for my first style of maritozzo . . . This old-school Roman brioche-style bun is cut up and loaded with whipped cream. I imply loaded. After my first chew, I can declare it my favourite breakfast. Ever. There’s no denying a gentle bun full of cream. It was actually transformational.

Don’t fear! There was nonetheless one other breakfast pastry to attempt: the cornetto. I finished within the comparatively new Casa Manfredi, the place all of the pastries are made in-house, together with this Italian staple. The cornetto, named for its form that includes two “horns,” is constituted of Italian brioche laminated with layers of butter, which provides it a denser texture when in comparison with its French cousin, the croissant. Casa Manfredi has loads of café tables out entrance the place you’ll be able to laze about and plan your subsequent cease.
After a full morning—actually—we would have liked espresso. Katie and I popped into Faro Caff è, the primary impartial specialty espresso store in Rome, the place you’ll discover extra
than espresso and cappuccino. Right here, at a cool espresso store that breaks all of the proverbial guidelines, I realized that there’s primary espresso etiquette guests ought to comply with.
Cappuccino shouldn’t be taken after lunch, solely espresso, and espresso needs to be taken in a single sip. Caffeinated and energized, I used to be prepared for my subsequent discovery. That’s the unimaginable factor about Rome: shock, magnificence, and historical past is round each nook.
Visiting Roma? Ebook a strolling meals tour with Katie, and she is going to work with you to customise an itinerary. Join together with her at katieparla.com or on Instagram (@katieparla).